Karen Goldman, Director of Product Design for Foster Grant
From LoveToKnow Sunglasses
How does one get started in such a glamorous field as eyewear design? LoveToKnow set out on a mission to get the scoop. We've interviewed Karen Goldman, Director of Product Development at Foster Grant to find out what it's like, and how to get there.
The Path to Eyewear Design
You have over 20 years of experience in eyewear design. How did you get started? What was the path like to get you to where you are today?
As an industrial design major, I gravitated toward fashion accessory products. I tinkered with jewelry design, which is closely related, yet eyewear design also requires technical expertise.
When I started out, eyeglass and jewelry manufacturing were very strong in the Northeast. I loved that at my first design job I was able to see my design through manufacturing to the final consumer product. I worked with model makers/craftsmen who would take conceptual drawing to prototype and learned a great deal in the early years from seasoned eyeglass designers. I gained an outstanding education into the ophthalmic product.
I came to understand the fine art of design to create a product people want to buy and wear. I continue to draw on this knowledge at Foster Grant where I need to produce designs that meet a broad range of price points across diverse categories and brands. This experience elevates and influences designs for our mass-market retailers.
A Day in the Life
Tell me a bit about Foster Grant and your position there. What is a normal workday like for you?
My workdays are full--always a challenge to meet and conquer. I work with a great design team, a group of dedicated driven people with terrific attention to detail. My primary role is to inspire the eyewear design group, to push their limits, and reach for new ideas. We work in collaboration with other teams to bring these innovations to life.
I spend a portion of my day meeting with each product manager. We discuss new design ideas, any product issues and strategies to overcome specific design challenges. Each product manager and I will carefully review prototypes from vendors. We review sizing, wrap, and lens base curve.
Within each collection, we ensure the assortment is balanced as a whole, has the correct relative sizing for the collection, as well as offering a diverse eye shape grouping. I also review samples for quality and approve for production.
What's What in Sunglass Trends
What are some of the trends in sunglasses found among celebrities right now? Do you see them changing in the near future? Where are the trendsetters headed next?
Aviators, shields, and large ladies plastics are popular with celebrities, and have carried over to the general public. It's interesting that aviator styles have been around for so long and have appealed to both men and women.
There are no women¹s aviators--women buy men's styles. Large wrap shields with plastic temples will remain strong. In non-plastic glasses you'll see large open double hinged temples. Lens colors are a fashion theme, and some are very light as celebrities often wear sunglasses indoors.
Coming trends include surface ornamentation, whether a metal pierced trim or laser design work on plastic. There's also been a redirection on sizing. The super sized frame has been toned down and although large is still the trend, it's a more "wearable large." The eye shapes are softer and rounder, similar to the "Jackie O" look.
Choosing Your Sunglasses: Fit, Comfort and Functionality
What advice would you offer for the average person who needs sunglasses--but can only buy one pair?
Comfort and fit are vital to a good pair of sunglasses that are worn daily through various activities. Not all frames suit all head and face shapes. Like jeans, not all size 10s fit the same on every size 10 woman. We have standards to deliver the best fit possible, including angle for fit of front temple, which is the position of your ears to your eyes and nose. We design for best comfort by addressing correct head curve, the wrap of the front from the top view, and the measurement of hinge to hinge and tip to tip. For active outdoor use, base curve and wrap designs also assist with full light protection.
With the fit and function accomplished, style is foremost. Our face is the first impression to the world, and to be confident, you need to find your style. Buy what makes you feel fabulous and comfortable--especially if it's the one pair you will be wearing every day.
You also have experience working with non-prescription reading glasses. What's the best way for a customer to choose those? What should they look for?
As with sunglasses, comfort and fit are essential, but with readers you need to make sure you have the right strength for correction. Take your time with the chart displayed on fixtures where you purchase.
Non-prescription reading glasses have become fashion accessories and design follows many of the same trends as sunglasses. Traditionally, a customer will purchase an everyday pair of readers and, since they are so affordable, may add two to three fashion pairs to suit their activities.
Sports and Fashion
Which sports brands do you work with? What are the most important components when designing sports sunglasses? What are you a stickler for when it comes to eyewear design in sports?
In addition to the Foster Grant sport line, I work on the well-known IRONMAN brand. As part of the sport category requirement, we incorporate ventilated soft rubber nose pads and temple tips. The rubber provides comfort during athletic activities. Sport styles must wrap appropriately and provide complete sun coverage to deliver comfort, and ultimately performance.
Polycarbonate lenses are essential as they offer shatter resistance in sport varieties. No question, I am a stickler for correct fit and want every pair to feel like a "glove" that you forget you are wearing.
What about in fashion? Are there certain components that are musts when designing everyday, fashionable sunglasses? How do you predict ahead of time what shapes/colors/styles will be in next season?
First, it's important that as fashion designers we are absorbing all we can from varied accessories and apparel categories. We travel globally and are influenced by anything that helps sunglasses to become the essential element to completing a look. To predict what trends are coming next we work very closely with trend forecasters who present looks being incorporated into the coming season. We always look forward to these presentations driving the fashions of the next sun season.
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Comments
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